What dish defines how Londoners are consuming now? We requested leaders within the metropolis’s meals scene to share a recipe that claims “London” to them.
Twenty years in the past, internet hosting overseas guests in London might be a humiliation: the place to take them for good native meals that was modern quite than preserved in aspic?
Fergus Henderson’s St. John, which opened in 1994, helped to alter all that. Along with his emphasis on wonderful native, seasonal components and the clear eye of an architect (his unique career), Henderson seasoned nostalgia with clean-cut modernity, fused conventional recipes with a gastronomic sensibility that always appeared extra Italian than British.
Just a few locations the place Henderson’s dish has been on show.
The roast bone marrow and parsley salad—a easy, pleasing dish—is one in all his most acclaimed, and typifies each his aesthetic method and his famed “nose-to-tail” perspective to consuming.
Sections of calves’ leg bones are roasted within the oven, and served with scorching toast, flaky sea salt, and a salad of parsley, shallots, and capers. Diners scoop the marrow onto the toast, season it with salt after which high with a refreshing little spritz of salad. Consuming the dish is each elegant (these long-handled spoons) and supremely carnal. It’s a small masterpiece of culinary pleasure, and an appropriate image of the transformation of London from worldwide gastronomic embarrassment to gastronomic capital in a number of quick years.
Fuchsia Dunlop is a prepare dinner and award-winning author. Her most up-to-date cookbook is Land of Fish and Rice: Recipes from the Culinary Heart of China. She lives in London.
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